Milan Fashion Week saw the return of homegrown designer names such as Gucci taking back to the runways after a long absence due to COVID. From logo-stamped faces to full-body paint and glitter, BeautyMatter rounds up the best looks made for Milan’s runways.
Gucci:
After two years of being away from the runway, Alessandro Michele presented “exquisite Gucci” in Milan. This collection put breaking gender boundaries at the forefront, with models dressed and decorated androgynously, making the collection inclusive for all. The bold beauty looks kicked off right from the start, with the debut model showcasing a cropped sage-green bob, with large glasses covering a majority of the face. Hairstyles from the ’80s took a lead in the first segment of the collection, with one model's left eye covered entirely by a curled ginger floppy quiff. The house’s collaboration with Adidas was evidenced in the garments as well as accessories, with a model's jet-black, flat-ironed hair covered by a tight-fit hat, showcasing the Adidas and Gucci logos, as well as the classic three stripes.
Then came a model with eyelids covered entirely by silver reflective robot-like, foil eyeshadow, so shiny it looked almost wet to the touch. The eye look came up again later in the collection, accompanied by an Adidas logo knit hat, this time covering the model’s hair entirely. The next model's eye shape was entirely outlined by royal-blue gemstones, capturing each detail of the eyes carefully. Nails were long and filed into sharp coffin shapes, with one set having pearls dotted along the edges, hanging off the nails in one case. Mullets and messy hair also had their moment, with models sporting bleach-blonde choppy styles. A model then entered the runway with a buzz cut and monochrome eye makeup precisely drawn to create a cracked, almost concrete look. Bold lipsticks in dark blue, black, and red made frequent appearances, paired at times with ’20s style ringlet hair. Makeup artist Thomas de Kluyver commented on the beauty elements of the show, stating: "It's kind of like a fashion accessory, like a bag or a clip that you put in your hair: makeup is a defining element of the look, and I think it's a fundamental element of Gucci.”
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Diesel:
“Out of this world” is the phrase that comes to mind when looking at Diesel’s FW22 collection, with outstanding looks emerging through both the clothing and beauty. Elements of surprise have become a heavy theme for the brand since Glenn Martens was appointed Creative Director last year. Before the show had even begun, the main attraction was gigantic puppets of the models wearing the collection, inflated and placed around the runway. The first three models’ appearance seemed pretty standard, with soft makeup and an ashy smoky eye, finished with glitter. However, when the fourth model entered the runway, with burning red hair, spray-painted glittery red from head to toe, it became evident that this collection would not be taking a subtle approach. After the red look, three subsequent models were completely sprayed from the roots of their hair to their feet; one future blue, one a bright gold, and the other a striking yet soft pink. The artist behind the body paint was Assia Caiazzo, who took to Instagram to comment on the show, thanking the Diesel team for trusting her to create the four body-paint looks.
The glitter eye looks continued through the show, with some models’ glitter beginning from the brow bone, trickling down towards the upper cheekbones, adding a bright and extraterrestrial look to their faces. Hair was slicked back and neat, with a handful adorned in spray-painted roots in green, blue, orange, and red. Shiny lips and perfect glass-looking skin heavily persisted through the collection, again putting emphasis on the futuristic, perfectly formed vibe. It’s clear Glenn Martens’ Diesel is one to keep an eye on.
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Weinsanto:
Victor Weinsanto’s collection “Murder in Paris” was an intentional crime scene on a runway, beginning with large rolls of tape across the stage, labeled with the fashion house’s logo. Starring Emily In Paris actress Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu, the show took inspiration from the classic board game Clue, with all models dressed to kill. The first model on the runway was completely covered in a thin dark fabric, with no evidence of identity given away as the Medusa-style, snake-shaped material protruded in all directions from the top of the head. It was after this that the beauty looks began, with the next model wearing sinister, Morticia Addams-esque jet-black, long straight hair. Her makeup was almost drag-like, heavy with dark smoky eyes, deep-brown contour, and a Barbie pink lip. Ombré, dark-purple lips took a strong position from then on in the collection, matching the next model's hair, a ’20s flapper-style bob with multicolored sequined beads lining her bangs.
The bowl-shaped bangs continued, with some models seen sporting styles loosely similar to mullets, but kept more intact and neat. The purple lips continued as a model entered the runway with a large spider-looking fluffy headpiece, with eyeliner stretching to meet the ends of the headwear. Smoky, bug-like eyes became the set-in-stone look for the rest of the models, resembling a black widow's back, furthering the feeling of mystery and unease among the collection. One model entered the runway, entirely hairless across both the head and eyebrows, allowing the deep, daring purple lips to stand out from the rest of the face. The penultimate model, Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu, entered the runway, her face shielded by a large hood, leaving only her coral-pink painted lips showing, to close the show.
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Versace:
Donatella Versace presented a Barbie-meets-goth rock beauty feel this season, with models looking serious and in charge, with a contrasting element of pretty and perfect. The first model showcased bold blocked eyeliner, covering the eyes from above and below, creating a harsh flick, her hair dead straight, cutting off at the bottom of her back. The next model was also adorned with a razor-edge sharp hair look, bleach blonde, made to stand out more by her entirely invisible eyebrows. Deep berry-red and purple lipstick dominated the collection, a strong look that has been present among numerous designers' presentations this season.
The Barbie-looking businesswomen then took to the runway, a standout look being a large, bright-orange, combed-back beehive, made to pop out by oversized glasses covering a large portion of the model’s face. Bangs fell over the eyebrow bones of numerous models, touching the tips of long eyelashes. Similar to the cracking concrete eyes at Gucci, one model was seen with lines dotted on her lower lash line, seeping and smudging into her under-eyes, clashing with long strands of choppy hair that draped in front of her face. The collection ended with Donatella taking her bow, wearing matching lengthy hair and block eyeliner look, as worn by the models.
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